Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Peace in the Valley: Monticello, New Mexico

Okay, it’s true that Monticello, New Mexico isn’t a full-on ghost town. Some folks do indeed live there. But it’s got its fair share of old, empty structures, including an impressive adobe school built by the Works Progress Administration (WPA). In 1980, Philip Varney included Monticello in New Mexico’s Best Ghost Towns because of its “extraordinary charm.” Well, in this case, perhaps not much has changed over 34 years because Monticello remains extraordinarily charming. Judging from Varney’s photos, some buildings look better and some perhaps worse. However, if you stopped for a couple hours to eat lunch on the shady steps of the school and listened to the birds sing while the wind blew gently through the tall cottonwoods, as I did, and then explored the rustic little plaza, you might think about buying a secluded retreat in Monticello, as I also did.

Monticello, in southwestern NM, is 25 miles northwest of Truth or Consequences, not far from Cuchillo, and was originally founded in 1856 as Cañada Alamosa. The name honored the town’s cottonwood-lined canyon. The Alamosa River flows alongside. Clearly, in the green, 23-mile-long Monticello Valley within which the town sits, cottonwood trees have always been a big deal.

Early on, Cañada Alamosa was the headquarters of the Southern Apache Agency. By 1870, 500 Apaches lived in the area and Cochise, the Apache leader and namesake of Cochise County, AZ, brought his entire Chiricahua Band in with him in the winter of 1871. But, in 1874, when the agency was moved a handful of miles northwest to the Ojo Caliente Reservation, near present-day Dusty, in what's now known as the Monticello Box Canyon, the Apache were dispersed. Almost 20 years later the town became known by the much less poetic moniker Monticello.

In 2003’s Ghost Towns Alive, Linda Harris says the name change was the result of postal system bureaucracy. The story goes that in 1892, Alphonse Bourguet and his brother, Aristide, French emigrants, wanted to establish a post office in Cañada Alamosa. However, the policy of the day dictated that postal names be a single word. Alphonse had once been postmaster in Monticello, NY and Aristide must've figured that worked pretty well the first time because he submitted Monticello as Cañada Alamosa's replacement. This is all similarly recounted in The Place Names of New Mexico.

But I have read other accounts, including in New Mexico’s Best Ghost Towns, stating that John Sullivan was the town’s first postmaster, also from Monticello, NY, and he made the change. However, I think this is now considered incorrect. Some Bourguet’s and Sullivan's still live in Monticello. Perhaps they can tell us! Whatever his role, John Sullivan’s home was reportedly a stage stop, claimed to be the first in Sierra County. Sullivan’s place still stands off Highway 142, which leads into town and passes the plaza. For some reason, New Mexico True says his home was the San Ignacio Catholic Church!

The Monticello Valley has always been a ranching and farming community and it remains so today, producing organic vegetables and award-winning balsamic vinegar. But it’s true that it’s not as bustling as in the past. The large Monticello Public School, mentioned earlier, has been reduced to a picturesque shell. Built in 1935, it's said the school burned down when a student's chemistry experiment exploded. However, that may be nothing more than a rumor propagated by my friend at Viva New Mexico. The plaza, quiet and empty during my visit, once provided a thick-walled adobe fortress complete with gun holes to guard against Apache attacks. A couple homes on the outskirts of town, one fairly large, appear long-abandoned, with vintage vehicles parked outside in various degrees of decay. Of course, I was in heaven.

On the other hand, the San Ignacio Catholic Church, built in 1867, is well-maintained and lovely. Located on the north side of the plaza, services are still held there. There may yet be a dried-out pump organ in the choir loft. Restored territorial-style homes with corrugated tin roofs peak from behind lush greenery. What appears to have once been an antique store sits silently to the east of the plaza. Quite derelict in a photo in Varney’s book, it’s clearly been restored, even if it’s now vacant again. Within its cool, blue walls are many of the antiques that must’ve once been for sale and the ceiling shows several large, beautiful vigas running lengthwise. Outside are a low, weathered, wooden patio and an old bench. Anybody want to go in on the place with me? That's it below.

In 1910, at its peak, Monticello had 573 residents and there may have once been more than 1,000 families throughout the valley, which includes the adjacent town of Placita. The 2012 census has the population at 135, yet most folks probably don't live in town year-round. I saw only a few people, all of which passed by in cars or trucks as I took photos along the roadside.

I attempted to get to the cemetery southwest of the plaza, but after crossing the shallow Alamosa River ran into several private property signs without a graveyard in sight. It’s a shame, because I hate to miss an old cemetery. But it does provide an excuse for a return visit. As if I needed an excuse! To further prove that point, as I left, four cow ponies crested the rise beside the cars pictured below. You might be able to make out the hawk soaring through the upper right of the frame. Extraordinarily charming indeed.

Most information for this post came from the NM ghost town books of Varney and Harris, with a bit from The Place Names of New Mexico. Viva New Mexico, and Legends of America were also useful. Ghosttowns.com has a couple interesting tidbits and Bestplaces.net presents demographic info from 2012. The Wall Street Journal did a great piece on the local balsamic vinegar and referenced peak population. New Mexico True, the state's official tourism website, gets much more wrong than right, but at least they tried. Maybe someday I can do a post about the healing waters of Ojo Caliente and the ruins of the Apache agency.

Next time, we’ll cross I-25, head through T or C, and have a look at Engle. Once filled with workers busy constructing Elephant Butte Dam, this dusty railroad wayside is now poised to be the gateway to Spaceport America.


CoastConFan said...

I never made it to Montecello, thanks for the coverage. Living in a ghost town requires a set of survival skills, some of which is having a source of income. The Darlands of Montecello seem to have that licked.

Here is a picturesque article about the Darlands, who live in Monticello and produce basalmic vinegar. They bought their 1870s house in 1992 and restored it. The article is well worth a read. http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424127887323975004578499360574856572

Another outstanding article about the Darlands and their grapes.

Summer Fey Foovay said...

Both the Bourgays and the Sullivans still have descendants in Monticello. You drove right past the big Sullivan place on your way to the plaza. The four horses were quite likely domestic cow ponies as there are no wild horses in the area, but lots of ropers and cattlemen as well as a talented horse trainer. I have a friend who lives there, and I visit quite often. It is a beautiful area. The Monticello Valley has been occupied for thousands of years. For more info get by the Geronimo Museum in Truth or Consequences, and the Old West Museum in Las Cruces has a room devoted to the archeological work done in the Monticello valley.

jmhouse said...

I had no idea about the balsamic vinegar connection, CoastConFan. That's cool! I added a link to the Darland's web page in my post.

The Blogquat piece comes via the Curious Kumquat restaurant in Silver City. They create constantly changing menus based on what can be foraged from the adjacent Gila Wilderness. I've been trying to get a meal there for some time but it's never worked out. Hopefully it'll happen soon!

Thanks for the links! JM

jmhouse said...

Thanks for the comment, Summer Fey Foovay! That's not the Sullivan place in the black and white shot, is it? Or is their place not actually abandoned? I've found a lot of conflicting information on Monticello. I figured people like yourself could help me sort it out.

I've been to the Geronimo Springs Museum but haven't spent enough time in Las Cruces to get to the Old West Museum. But I know about it and want to spend some time there.

It actually occurred to me that those *might* not be wild horses like you'd see near, say, Placitas. Just no need to keep them fenced-in up on those hills, eh?

Thanks again for the info! JM

Anonymous said...

Thanks for taking the time to post about Monticello. It is very dear to my heart. Aristide Bourguet was my Great-Great Grandfather. I appreciate all of the nice things you said about the town. I look forward to more of your posts.


jmhouse said...

Thank you so much, Bridget! I'm thrilled to hear from the great-great-granddaughter of Aristide Bourguet. Monticello is such a beautiful place. I hope to return soon.

Thanks again! JM

Anonymous said...

I have wonderful memories of visiting my grandparents at their ranch as well as their house in Monticello, even remember going to the Mercantile general store fir sodas. My mother & her siblings attended school there & my grandparents are buried up on the hill cemetery. My grandfather is in the Geronimo Springs museum as the oldest living WW1 veteran in NM at the time, Adrian Sanchez. I still have an aunt & uncle until two months ago were still living in Monticello - my uncle just died two months ago. I have wonderful memories as a little girl of that beautiful area! Thx.

jmhouse said...

Thanks for sharing your wonderful family memories, Anonymous! There is just something very special about Monticello. I really want to soak in the nearby hot springs sometime. I guess it's still dammed-up just the way it was when the Apaches used it.

Thanks again! JM

Anonymous said...

The school burnt down many years after they closed it. Some time in the 60s. I went to school there in till the 3rd grade I believe. The house where the winery is at, my grandparents lived there for many years. I still have relatives living there in Monticello. I grew up there in till I was 19 and the army came a calling. Have been back there a few time over the years. Yours truly Alejandro Lucero

jmhouse said...

Thanks for your comment, Alejandro Lucero. It's much appreciated. That's interesting that the house where the winery is was once your grandparent's home. Do you think that's the same house where they're also making balsamic vinegar and storing the barrels in the attic? Anyway, I imagine Monticello was a wonderful place to spend time as a kid.

Thanks again! JM

Mary Alice Sedillo Whiteside said...

My Aunts, Uncles, Grandparents and Great Grandparents are all buried in the Monticello Graveyard. It overlooks Monticello, up on the hill. My Dad went to school in the old school house. I lived in Placitas, from 2001-2007. Great Memories! Sedillo Family!

Brenda Valencia said...

The house where the Darlands live and make balsamic vinegar was formerly my grandparents house, Pat and Louisa Bierner. I spent much of my childhood there, wonderful memories. They have done some renovations to the house but looks like they kept original structure intact.

jmhouse said...

It's always great to hear from people with family connections to Monticello, Mary Alice Sedillo Whiteside and Brenda Valencia. I still have not been to the Monticello Cemetery, after failing in my initial attempt as described above in the post. I need to try again soon!

I often suggest that people visit Monticello if they want to see a charming village and valley that is off-the-beaten track. It must indeed have been a wonderful place to grow up. I'm glad the Darland's have kept that house intact!

Thanks again! JM

Harry said...

I am not sure I've visited Monticello, but I've gone through Chloride, which isn't too far away. One are which is a GREAT attraction, especially for 4x4'ing is the drive through Monticello Canyon. I haven't made the trip, but many people are trying to ensure it remains open to the public. New Mexico has a lot of interesting places to visit and sight-see. I'm from Colorado originally and it has a lot of great places to visit as well.

NM Nomad, thanks for posting your pictures and articles. I really enjoy reading them!

jmhouse said...

Thanks for your comment, Harry. I haven't fully explored Monticello Canyon either, but I'd certainly like to. I also want to soak in the nearby hot springs that the Apache, including Geronimo, once used. You're right that Chloride isn't far away, nor is Cuchillo.

There are indeed lots of fascinating places to visit in Colorado. Sadly, I haven't documented very many of them. Yet. However, one place I did manage to post about was the Highway of Legends, near Trinidad. I highly recommend that drive if you haven't done it.

Thanks again! Glad you enjoy City of Dust! JM

Unknown said...

Unfortunately, Monticello box and the hot springs have all become closed too the public,due to said public mistreating the lands. It's an enjoyable article,but it also opens up small communities like ours up for vandalism and desecration of the beautiful lands and historical structures due to sightseers rummaging for momentos and ghosts...

jmhouse said...

It's true that there's always the danger that people who visit places like Monticello will mistreat them. I guess that's true of people visiting anywhere, sadly. However, Monticello appears in two of the most widely-read ghost towns books covering NM, Philip Varney's "New Mexico's Best Ghost Towns: A Practical Guide" and Linda Harris's "Ghost Towns Alive: Trips to New Mexico's Past," as well as the ghost towns section of the New Mexico True website, each of which have a reach vastly wider than my little endeavor. Also, I didn't mention the location of the hot springs as I don't actually know it.

Thanks for your comment, Chantal Orosco, JM


I lived in Monticello - and attended that WPA school (that was 1949-1950); My uncle was a SULLIVAN; I lived with my grandparents (on my mother's side), the Joseph and Mary Miranda....
Our family (like most) attended the church (shown in several photos). Not clear is that the town was build around a LARGE open square... (They had rodeos there, often running the calfs [for roping events], to one end of the square, where they went into a corral sided by my grandfathers place, and my uncle Sullivan......

My grandmother had a large rose garden, and they farmed and had a little store also. Once I remember they traded rooming to a beekeeper, who paid off in honey.

Many happy memories. My grandfather was also the school janitor, my mother was the school salutatorian (they reminded that the girl who was the valedictorian, was the daughter of the principal. Hinting that the fix was in.)


jmhouse said...

Thanks for your comment, Jason! It's great to hear from someone that lived in Monticello and attended the WPA school! It's true that I didn't include a photo or a real description of the plaza. I'm pretty sure I failed to get a picture of the plaza that I liked...or maybe a picture of it at all! Also, I wonder if the plaza is maybe smaller now than it once was. It seems like it would be a pretty short run for a calf from one end of it to the other these days.

Anyway, that's pretty cool that your grandparents traded room and board for honey. I think I'd do that, too, as I'm quite fond of the stuff!

Thanks again! JM


Thanks for the kindness of your response...
Went thru my memory (sometimes what we see as BIG, is not actually so BIG, thru the eyes of an adult).
I will try to draw it out, scan it and send it to to U.
Absolutely, I do remember that two corners of the central plaza were the church (shows in many photos) on one end, and my grandparents house which was about 1500 feet from the WPA school.
The horses and riders would circle thru the plaza for events such as calf roping (the get-aways would come to the space between my grandparents (Joseph Lola Miranda) They owned a building used for community dances and other get togethers (as a way to break the life of hard work and heat)... Next to this building was a space (they opened the gate to herd the calfs into); and my uncle Sullivans place (at one one point, I remember a no-longer used, fuel pump (Tall, metal, glass top). They would rig hay bales and some temporary fence from the end of the open gate, to block access to the road going in front of the school.
Another corner (across from us, lived other relatives (I don't remember which); my friend Bobby ... along that wall was a bar/store, with a huge porch...
My early GUESS was a square about 1500 X 1500 X 1500
Another event was a post with 4 arms that spun, and had a ring at the end. The running rider had to reach out and grab the ring... (obvious danger and a chance to show your skills and your courage. <> To impress the girls, I guess (I was to young and to lofty to notice such a thing as GIRLS, back then.

jmhouse said...

That's a wonderful picture of ropin' and ridin' in Monticello! Thanks very much for sharing it! What a time that must've been. I wish that old gas pump was still around to take a photo of, but I think I would've seen it if it existed.

There isn't any chance the bar/store you mention is the building in the sixth photo shown above, is there? I really love that place and think I wouldn't mind living in it, if there was a way to do so! Although I guess the porch isn't so big.

Anyway, thanks again for the recollections and I'll certainly be more than happy to receive anything else you might be able to send my way! JM

Carla said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
jmhouse said...

Hi Carla,

I'm afraid I won't be able to help you very much with homes in the Monticello area specifically, but I do know that any place with an indoor lap pool is not representative of most of what you'll find in the neighborhood! If you're looking to get remote, you might also want to have a look at White Oaks, where some historic homes are being restored, as well as other parts of Lincoln County. Hillsboro, in Sierra County, is nice and out of the way, as is nearby
Kingston. I'd say Lamy might be worth a look, too. It's close to Santa Fe, so not as off the beaten path, but it's kind of tucked away and it's got, uh, Amtrak service.

Best of luck and glad you liked the piece on Monticello! JM

Carla said...

Thanks, JM. I will look into the suggested areas. Your response is appreciated. Amtrak service. Ah, yes. There's power in deliberation!